I may have been the last person in the world – certainly the last in our office – to realize that two planes running into the Twin Towers was a terrorist act. I recall thinking that it was an amazing coincidence that on a clear day two planes could strike the towers within minutes. It was not obvious immediately that these planes were commercial airliners, and I wondered if air controllers had gone crazy.
CARRIGART, COUNTY DONEGAL, IRELAND – Many thought that the mysterious University of Notre Dame was located in a remote part of Indiana. However, just last weekend researchers found that the school is actually located in a section of Dublin, Ireland, known as Temple Bar. There were 35,000 Americans in Dublin last weekend, the vast majority of whom were from or associated with Notre Dame, and the vast majority of them were waking up to headaches after spending the pre-game celebration in a neighborhood that has a bar every 50 feet. In fairness, Navy fans were also seen: a guess is about five ND for every Navy person. It is said to be the largest group of Yanks to come over for a weekend event since World War II.
Notre Dame played Navy Saturday and, praised be to the saints, destroyed the Middies, 50-10. More important in this economy, it is estimated that this event generated 100 million euros for the Irish economy. Few of the fans came over for game day. Almost all turned it into an Ireland tour. Anthony Travel, a company that does travel for Notre Dame, brought 2,000 people when the Irish first played Navy here in 1996. This time they brought 10,000. As a result, people wearing Irish hats, shirts, jackets and Joe Montana’s No. 3 jersey have infested the entire country – the victors are everywhere, in Galway, in Cork, in Killarney, even here in dear old Donegal. We thought we had finally shaken them in Belfast, but today in the McNutt tweed shop we ran into Joe Dougherty, whose Philadelphia accent could be identified at 10 paces. At least by a fellow Yank. The native Irish can always spot an American accent, but most can’t tell Texas from Brooklyn.
The game, although not close, was a memorable spectacle. The entire brigade of Midshipmen marched in, as in the Army-Navy game ceremony, and the famous Notre Dame band, only at half strength because it only brought upperclassmen, put in a splendid halftime show. The local Irish, some of who were in the audience, were impressed. Yanks were vocally proud of their kinsmen on both sides.
An Irish cab driver pointed out that the Gaelic football finals were on the same weekend, but he knew something unusual was happening because he had been driving people wearing Notre Dame colors for several days. He said the Gaelic footballers were all amateurs; they had jobs and just played for local pride.
“They play for the jersey,” he said. He asked if the American lads got paid. We explained that they got scholarships, but they weren’t paid, depending on what dirty program they worked for, but they used the publicity to get professional contracts. But on the college level, most of them also played for the jersey.
“And isn’t that just fair,” he said.
We said surely it was indeed and took off, mostly by train, to show Mark McCormick, an ND alum, a bit of the country from which most of his ancestors left years back. The first at sea was Hugh McNeales in 1835. Where we write may be within walking distance of his birth place. That is if you are willing to walk a few days, which is what most did in that era. If you walk, you have time to figure out the road signs, which are both in English, a language familiar to many Americans, and the old Gaelic, which few in Ireland can speak. The reason for this, we learned, is that a labor union called Erin Lispach dun ballystuffing mischt giblets con sinaghe, 42, Aidan MacSuibhne, schante boyo (translation: Irish Sign Painters and Typesetters Union 42, Aidan Sweeney, president) insisted on keeping Gaelic signs alive because it gives twice as much work to the lads. Gaelic, like German, is about three times as long as English. Which is why the only kind thing the English ever did for the Irish was coax them, sometimes at the point of a bayonet, out of their language.
Most of the people we met from Notre Dame had not been to Ireland before. The game presented the perfect opportunity to fill that void and watch their team at the same time. The Irish are on to something. They have also declared 2013 the year of the gathering of the clans.They won’t have a football game as a draw, but maybe they can have a battle as of old. And enjoy the old tongue.
Garda O’Gallehobbair dice bruscar baile nu tacsaithe con coras iampair et lady gaga un gibberish Gaelic a dheanamh Nahcht Domino pizza.
Translation: Gallagher the cop says they don’t speak Gaelic at Notre Dame.
And that’s no blarney.
It was the fall of 1961, and through a football coach I was covering in Chester, Pa., I connected with an Army Reserve unit. It was just in time. I was one of those six-monthers on active duty in the late ’50s, and I had an eight-year Reserve obligation, which I had largely ignored for a year. But this was a perfect setup, a civil affairs company that was headed by a state senator, loaded with professional types. I figured I was a natural for the company public information guy, but the slot was already taken by Lt. Gaeton Fonzi.
Fonzi seemed like a quiet guy, and I was told he had some kind of journalism background. He worked for a business magazine. I had never heard of it but that changed a month or so later when I saw a reprint of something he had written. If memory serves me right, the lead was “Chester is a city which doesn’t give a damn.” That article not only got my attention; it changed my life. Over the next several years the obscure magazine Fonzi worked for morphed into Philadelphia Magazine, which rocked that city month after month and in effect invented the city- magazine concept, which is now all over the country. Fonzi wrote most of the powerful articles that made that happen.
Among his scores was an exposé on a crooked reporter for the Philadelphia Inquirer who used his reputation as the publisher’s hatchet man to shake down numerous businesses, including the city’s largest bank. That article made Time Magazine and many papers, including The New York Times. He followed that up with articles that became a book about the publisher, Walter Annenberg – the most powerful man in Philadelphia. Shortly thereafter, Annenberg sold the Inquirer to Knight Newspapers. Many think Fonzi embarrassed him to the point that he left town.
And it was in Philadelphia that Fonzi first wrote about the assassination of President John F. Kennedy. The local angle was Arlen Specter, then an assistant district attorney in Philadelphia, later a longtime U.S. senator. Specter was the man who came up with the “single bullet theory,” which was the only way the Warren Commission could conclude that Lee Harvey Oswald alone murdered a president. Fonzi was amazed that Specter could not explain his own theory, and how the physical evidence so blatantly contradicted the lone assassin conclusion. His work was one of the first challenges to the Warren Commission. Important people in Philadelphia read it. More on that a bit later.
Impressed by the magazine’s extraordinary growth, I signed on in 1965. Five years later, when it was obvious regional magazines were catching on everywhere, Fonzi and I formed a company to buy Gold Coast in Fort Lauderdale. He moved down in 1972. After serving as editor of Miami Magazine, which we sold, Fonzi was contacted by Sen. Richard Schweiker of Pennsylvania. Schweiker was reopening an investigation into JFK’s death. He remembered Fonzi’s Philadelphia Magazine work and contacted him to work in South Florida, checking into CIA connections with anti-Castro elements. Schweiker suspected Lee Harvey Oswald was an intelligence operative. Fonzi all but proved it, discovering through a Miami Cuban that a high-ranking CIA man had been seen with Oswald in Dallas before the assassination. This information came despite efforts by known CIA people – Watergate burglar Frank Sturgis was one of them – to waste his time and the government’s money on wild goose chases.
That CIA discovery got Fonzi an extended job in Washington, five years in all, which ended with a House subcommittee report that the murder of JFK was a conspiracy, but left the conspirators vague. Fonzi, who wrote much of that report, did not think it was vague, but wasn’t permitted to say so. He was convinced that if the CIA did not murder Kennedy, it went to great lengths to cover up the true nature of the crime. He wrote in effect a dissenting opinion, which first appeared in this magazine, and 14 years later became a book, The Last Investigation. It has been cited by virtually every serious researcher ever since, and the work is one of the main reasons that most people today do not believe a lone nut killed a president.
In Florida, Fonzi continued to contribute to his legacy as a remarkable investigative reporter and exceptional stylist. He wrote a three-part series on the Ivy-League-developer-turned-drug-runner, Ken Burnstine, who was killed in a mysterious plane crash while scheduled to testify against numerous South Florida people in a federal case. He had turned informant after being arrested. It had been reported that Burnstine had faked his death; Fonzi proved otherwise, but also suggested he may have been murdered to keep him quiet.
Then there was the case of three South Florida people who disappeared after having financial contact with a notorious con man. The con man was supposed to be in jail, but Fonzi learned through Fort Lauderdale police sources that the con man was being used in a sting operation by the FBI in Chicago. Fonzi broke the story in Miami Magazine and then took it to Chicago, and later New York. It involved payoffs to big-time politicians for contracts to collect parking tickets. The borough president of Queens committed suicide. Columnist Jimmy Breslin called it one of the biggest scandals in his long career in the Big Apple.
Any one of these stories would make a memorable career for most magazine writers. Gaeton Fonzi wrote all these and many more, some was funny and his serious stuff was serious. His last works were two articles he contributed to a book I am soon to publish on the history of the city/regional magazines. He managed to do this work while suffering from Parkinson’s disease, which finally took him on Thursday. There are a dozen writers featured in the book. All are good. He was the best.
The big bad news story today is the Postal Service is in danger of being shut down. We have an emotional attachment to this issue, having once labored for the Postal Service. That is, if you count the days when college kids used to pick up handy change by working to back up the pros for the Christmas rush. The trick was to try to stay on the clock for 24 hours straight. That was possible, but rarely achieved because there was always some full-time party pooper who would find us sleeping in the basement around 4 in the morning. He would wake everybody up and make us clock off, but about an hour later the trucks would roll in with bags and bags of new mail, and shortly we would be out on the street with the first delivery.
That usually took a few hours, and each time you worked the same route it got a little faster. Then, if you chose well, which meant a route in your own neighborhood, you could walk home and catch a few hours sleep before you had to check the designated box and start out on the day's afternoon delivery. That took a few hours, and by the time you got back to the office, trucks were lined up bringing the next day's mail for sorting. If you had the right connections, and we did (Dad knew Mr. Loyons, the postmaster) then you could stay on the clock and help with the sorting. That lasted well into the night and was educational. You learned to use modern miracles such as a machine that wrapped string around bundles of mail. When that job was completed, you went into hiding, in the basement, with maybe a dozen other savvy guys – until the party pooper caught you and insisted on clocking everybody off. But 22 out of 24 hours wasn't bad. Especially when you knew what you were doing was important to people.
Alas, today's mail seems not so important. The combination of package delivery services, and the Internet have cut severely into Postal Service revenues, so much so that we face a question of whether this great institution can service, or should? Our vote is that it should, and a possible salvation combines two concepts we have covered in the past. The answer is one word. Trains. And specifically commuter trains. They are making a comeback, all over the country. You can now get from New York to Philadelphia in a little more than an hour. With that speed, the Postal Service could enjoy a new birth, with same-day delivery. That would not compete with the Internet, but it sure would compete with the package delivery companies, and we all know that is a big part of mail today. As state after state, including Florida, began to recognize the value of trains for short- and mid-range trips (say Fort Lauderdale to Orlando) it will be possible to make those trips in a few hours. Going back to the old system of sorting on trains, made infinitely faster by the lights of technology, it should be possible to off load delivery vehicles at various stations (perhaps 20 miles apart), which can reach the destinations before the sun sets.
There is clearly a market for fast delivery. Anybody in business knows that speed counts. Sales people have the urge to get things out immediately, and not worry about the cost. The package delivery services, offering next-day delivery, have proved it for years. Which is why commuter, and the growing number of mid-range trains, connecting cities within a few hundred miles, offer such opportunity. Not only could same-day delivery produce the revenues to make such trains less of money losers, and possibly even profitable in high-traffic markets, they are positioned to serve the areas where most packages and high-priority mail is headed.
This idea of meshing two needed services, fast passenger rail and fast package delivery, is not unrecognized. A proposed inter-city service in the Midwest has factored the idea into its proposed operating plan. And not long ago we had a conversation with an important Tri-Rail figure. It was an informal meeting, so his name should not be used, but when we threw out the idea of using Tri-Rail for same-day package delivery, his response was immediate: "That," he said, "is an interesting idea." Is it interesting enough to save the Postal Service?






